Breakfast and Early Start

We skipped breakfast at Refuge de Carozzu to avoid getting wet later in the day. With enough snacks packed in our bags, we aimed to reach the next refuge early and avoid the afternoon rain. Our departure was set for 5:30 am to make the most of the daylight and dodge the expected rain.

Morning Hike: Crossing the Rope Bridge

Our hike began with a thrilling crossing of a shaky rope bridge. The bridge was a bit nerve-wracking but added an exciting start to our day. From there, we ascended steeply using ropes and chains. This section of the trail was one of the most challenging, with smooth rocks requiring careful navigation to prevent slips and falls.

Ascending and Scrambling

As we climbed higher, we encountered lingering snow and challenging terrain. After about three hours of steep ascent, we reached the summit, offering us expansive views and a sense of accomplishment. The route then led us to a brief but intense scramble before a steady 30-minute climb to the highest point of the day at 2,000 meters.

Navigating the Boulder Field

The descent took us through a steep and dangerous boulder field. The rocks here were unstable and moved quickly, making this section hazardous. We had to stay alert to avoid falling rocks and navigate carefully over the shifting terrain.

Arrival at Ascu Stagnu

Upon completing the boulder field, we walked through a tranquil forest and arrived at the Asco ski resort. Staying in a hotel was a welcome change, providing much-needed comfort, a hot shower, and a delicious meal. The hotel was well-equipped, and the owner was incredibly helpful, providing us with valuable advice for the days ahead.

Connectivity and Amenities

Ascu Stagnu offered full phone signal and WiFi, a significant upgrade from the previous days. The hotel also had washing machines and dryers—though there were long queues, getting our clothes cleaned was a much-needed luxury.

Monte Cinto and the Decision to Detour

We first glimpsed Monte Cinto, the highest point of the GR20 at 2,562 meters, covered in snow. Given that Andrew did not have crampons, crossing the snow-covered peak was deemed too risky. After consulting with other hikers, we decided to take a bus detour around the mountain. Though disappointing, this decision was made with safety in mind.

Conclusion

Day 3 on the GR20 was a blend of intense hiking, stunning scenery, and strategic decisions. From the exhilarating rope bridge crossing to the challenging boulder field, and finally the comforts of Ascu Stagnu, this day provided a mix of hardships and rewards. Our detour around Monte Cinto, though not part of the original plan, ensured our safety and allowed us to continue our adventure.

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Conquering Storms and Rugged Trails

Day 2 on the GR20 presented a real test of endurance and resilience. We embarked on our hike from Refuge d’Ortu di U Piobbu, ready to tackle the challenges of Corsica’s famed trail. The day’s journey was marked by dramatic weather changes and demanding terrain, making it a memorable and testing part of our adventure.

Morning Start: Steep Ascent Through Beech Forests

We started our hike early at 7:30 am, greeted by overcast skies and cool temperatures. The trail began with a steep climb through beautiful beech forests, setting the tone for the day. As we ascended, the path gradually led us to the base of a towering mountain. Although the climb was strenuous, the stunning views of the surrounding peaks kept us motivated. We paused briefly for a snack before continuing our ascent toward the day’s highest point.

Reaching the Summit and Facing Hailstorms

By 11:35 am, we reached the summit at 2,000 meters. The final stretch to the top involved some scrambling, requiring both hands and feet to navigate the rocky terrain. Just as we celebrated reaching the highest point, the weather turned against us.

Hailstones began to fall heavily, and we had to quickly put on our wet gear and find shelter under a rock overhang. The brief moments of sunshine were fleeting, and the rain persisted throughout our journey.

Navigating Treacherous Terrain

The next phase of our hike involved navigating a challenging boulder field. The combination of rain and slippery rocks made the climb even more difficult. For about two hours, we scrambled over wet boulders and climbed through rushing streams. The descent from 1,900 meters to 1,270 meters was particularly tough, with the slick stones adding to the difficulty. Despite these obstacles, we finally arrived at the Refuge de Carozzu at 3:30 pm, soaked and weary.

Refuge de Carozzu: Arrival and Recovery

Upon arrival, we picked our tents and changed into dry clothes. The relentless rain continued, but we managed to get our gear somewhat dry during a brief lull in the weather. Dinner at the refuge was less than ideal—soup for starters, bland pasta for the main course, and an underwhelming chocolate cake for dessert. However, after a gruelling day, any food was a welcome relief.

Planning for the Next Day

Given the forecast of more rain, we decided to start our hike early at 5:30 am to avoid the worst of the weather. This proactive approach was crucial for making it to the next refuge before the rain set in. Day 2 reinforced the importance of preparation and flexibility when hiking the GR20.

Connectivity and Reflections

At Refuge de Carozzu, there was no Wi-Fi or phone signal, as it is situated in a remote valley between two large mountains. Despite the lack of connectivity, the stunning scenery provided some solace. Many hikers considered quitting due to the harsh conditions, but the shared experience of enduring the elements fostered a sense of camaraderie.

Stay tuned for Day 3, where we tackle the hike from Refuge de Carozzu to Ascu Stagnu, facing new challenges and exploring more of Corsica’s rugged beauty.

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Embarking on the GR20 trail is a thrilling adventure, and Day 1 is the perfect introduction to the rugged beauty of Corsica. Our journey began in the charming village of Calenzana, known for its picturesque streets and warm hospitality. Here’s a detailed account of our first day’s hike, which took us from Calenzana to the Refuge d’Ortu di U Piobbu.

Starting Point: Calenzana

Our adventure kicked off in Calenzana, a quaint village that serves as the gateway to the GR20. We stayed overnight at the Hotel Bell Horizon, a charming accommodation that set a high standard for our trip. The hotel, priced at €101 including breakfast, offered a delightful start with a welcoming host and a hearty meal to fuel our hike. For those looking for a comfortable stay before the trek, Hotel Bell Horizon comes highly recommended.

The Hike Begins

Start Time: 7:30 am

After a satisfying breakfast, we set off from Calenzana at around 7:30 am. The weather was perfect—sunny and cool, with temperatures around 12°C. The path from Calenzana quickly ascends into the scenic beauty of Corsica’s landscape, and we were immediately enveloped by the lush greenery of beech forests.

Ascending to the First Pass

The trail begins with a steady climb through dense beech forests, which, while gradual, sets the tone for the challenging terrain ahead. The path, though steep, offers stunning views and a sense of excitement as we make our way towards the first significant ascent.

Distance Covered: 5 km

The first major climb of the day brought us to a pass at 1,250 meters. The trail here is rugged, with loose stones and shale underfoot. The ascent was demanding, but the beautiful pine forest and the winding path provided a rewarding hiking experience. Hiking poles proved invaluable in navigating the uneven terrain.

Lunch Break

Time: Approximately 11:00 am

Upon reaching the top of the climb, we took a well-deserved break for lunch. The stunning views from this elevation offered a perfect backdrop for a much-needed rest. We quickly learned that the food on the trail can vary in quality and portion size, so it’s crucial to pack snacks and be prepared for basic meals.

Rough Terrain and Scrambling

Post-lunch, the trail took us around the rear of a mountain where the terrain became exceptionally rough and steep. This section required careful navigation and the use of steel ropes to aid in the climb. While the scrambling was exhilarating, it was essential to stay focused and use both hands and feet to maneuver through the rocky paths.

Reaching the Refuge d’Ortu di U Piobbu

Arrival Time: 3:30 pm

After a challenging and exhilarating day, we finally reached the Refuge d’Ortu di U Piobbu, located at an elevation of 1,548 meters. The refuge was a welcome sight after a demanding day of hiking. We were greeted by the friendly staff and given the choice of any available tent.

Evening at the Refuge

Dinner: €40 (including dinner, breakfast, and lunch for the next day)

Dinner at the refuge was a mixed experience. The meal, while filling, was basic—consisting of dried meat for starters, pasta for the main course, and a cookie and yogurt for dessert. Special dietary needs, like gluten-free options, were accommodated, but it’s always best to confirm ahead of time.

Additional Notes:

• Showers: Available but basic. Showers were warm but the facilities were somewhat dark.
• Water: Drinkable only from the stream, as advised by the refuge staff.
• Internet: Very limited, so ensure to download offline maps and track your progress with outdoor apps.

Final Thoughts

Day 1 on the GR20 from Calenzana to Refuge d’Ortu di U Piobbu was a fantastic start to the trek. The hike was demanding but offered incredible views and a sense of achievement. Remember to pack light but efficiently, as the trail’s challenges are best met with a well-prepared bag. Stay tuned for more updates on our journey through Corsica’s stunning landscapes.

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