We woke up in our B&B not knowing what to expect, as we were the only backpackers to stay there that night. The owners English was not great, but they made a better effort than we dared to attempt with French or Swiss. We assumed breakfast might have been included but as the accommodation was so cheap we didn’t really mind if it wasn’t. We went down to the restaurant to check out and the owner had prepared the usual Mont Blanc trail breakfast of toast, jams, croissants, and cereal, we ate our breakfast while looking over the lovely calm lake. Breakfast in Champex-Lac
We walked out of Champex-Lac town passing all the hotels and restaurants that surround the lake. The concrete footpath that we were walking along quickly turns into a grass verge on the side of the road. We passed a campsite on the outskirts of the town then follow the main road passing very tight corners in the road with very little room to stand in if cars were coming, so care should be taken here. We continue walking along the main road for another 2-300m but the road widens giving safer room to help the walkers keep away from cars. We were directed down a small lane by a sign painted on a stone for “Bovine TMB”. The morning part of the trail was an easy and pleasant walk cutting through a small woodland and passing nicely maintained houses in the countryside.
After walking through the meadows and forests for around an hour we came to the first real steep section of the day. At the beginning of the steep hill, just out of the woodland there was a little small coffee shop, that had amazing views of the valley below.
We were very lucky with the weather on this stage of the mont blanc trail, most of our breaks consisted of Ice-cream and water to cool down. So we got 2 ice-creams and some cold water and started our hike up the steep hill.
Needless to say, the ice-creams didn’t last long, as the temperature was already 25 degrees and we were increasing in altitude very quickly. The mont blanc trail climbed through woodland trails only wide enough for one person at a time but this was no problem as we didn’t meet any other people.
The trail was filled with natural beauty, around every steep hill we took a quick break to admire the flowers and views. This mont blanc trail was filled with small streams that just started to thaw out after the winter freeze, some streams had large chunks of ice remaining which helped us to cross without getting wet feet.
Some of the sections cutting through the wood were extremely steep, looking back at the photographs they don’t seem as steep but be warned you will have sore calf muscles after some of these hills.
The woodland was providing nice shelter from the heat of the sun but it was very humid underneath the canopy of the trees at times. We eventually walked out over the top of the trees into a meadow of wildflowers. The trail seemed to follow around the edge of the mountain while also climbing to our high point of the day.
We eventually reached Alpage Bovine at 1987m, we arrived around lunchtime and there was hardly room to sit down, we sat in deck chairs overlooking the valley below(I think we actually got the best seats in the garden). We just bought some cool drinks and shared a protein bar while researching what was ahead of us, the views from this hostel are simply breathtaking.
We relaxed here for 25-30 minutes enjoying the views and the quirky coffee shop with its unique mix of agricultural bathroom fittings, you have to love the owner’s innovative nature to mix industrial water fittings with bathroom taps.
We left Alp Bovine and walked toward our high point, the mont blanc trail continued following the path along the edge of the hill while still walking uphill gradually.
The mont blanc trail high point is marked by a small metal gate. We met 2 french hikers that we keep bumping into at the gate, either they are fast for older walkers or we are slow for younger walkers but we seem to be walking a similar pace (I assume we are slow). They were a really lovely couple that was very kind and we loved meeting them.
From this point on the mont blanc trail, like most days on the Tour du Mont Blanc, it was basically all downhill after the high point. So there was no more gasping for air, we could see a road to our right-hand side that cut through the mountain, we are walking toward this road.
Forclaz was the final destination for this section on our guidebook but we had a tight timeframe so we needed to try to push a little further every day if we could. We decided to get food in Forclaz and then walk onto Trient for the night’s accommodation. The walk into Forclaz was very enjoyable as it was mostly all downhill and surrounded by wildflower meadows.
Forclaz sits at 1527m and was one of the busiest roads/Refugee/coffee shops that we have ever seen. Every few minutes larger groups of people stopped for food and drink. We got a late lunch in the restaurant and Georgina still refers to the food that she got here as the best burger that she has ever got. We also treated ourselves to ice-cream (we had to keep our strength up).
After our late lunch, we started walking toward Trient which sat in the valley below at 1279m. As we left Forclaz we could see Trient below, the walk down to Trient cut through woods and even crossed a temporary bridge.
The walk took us about 50 minutes including a small break for pictures. Trient was a small town with only one hostel called Auberge du Mont Blanc there didn’t seem to be any shops or supermarkets to resupply and as usual with the hostels on the TMB they overcharge for basics supplies, so stock up on essentials when you can.
The hostel in Trient was clean and comfortable with good facilities such as wifi. It cost €50 each to stay in the dormitory but there was no breakfast included in that price. The dorm was a reasonable size and only had 8 beds in it so it was not overcrowded. It was the only hostel we stayed in that had a balcony and it had outstanding views of the church.
There is not much to do in Trient, so don’t rush the day because if you get here too early you will end up walking around looking to kill time.
Walking out of Champex-Lac you will pass many small hamlets of houses and its a very easy section to just enjoy and admire all the different style of houses. Like all other days on the TMB, the uphill sections are extremely hard, so stop at every coffee shop to take a break. Don’t rush today’s section as its one of the easier hill sections. Enjoy every second of the views at Alp Bovine because the view down the valley is outstanding.
We stayed the night in Trient in the hostel called L’ Auberge du Mont Blanc for €50 each for the dorm. It is a nice hostel but very expensive for what you get.